Back home, and more busy than ever. Lots of photos to process with Aperture on the Mac. Oodles of music and apps to sort out and put in their right places. The joy of unlimited and fast broadband still brings a smile to my face. The sheer convenience of data synching across all devices makes my life simpler.
More on Chile and Rapa Nui to follow and then to find out how to start new blog subsection
In the meantime , views of Tynemouth – ships waiting to enter the Tyne and trees on a Glorious Saturday – hot and bustling by Tynemouth Station
Rapa Nui
Falklands blog for Wednesday May 15 2013
Not in the Falklands, but on Easter Island aka Islas de Pascua or Rapa Nui
Home of the Moai which stand on the Ahu.
Most were toppled in the wars that coincided with European discovery and ended with the Birdman cult.
The island and culture are held up as an example of profligate use of natural resources, but as always, the truth is more complicated.
Today, things that stand out are the feral dogs (they bark and howl all night long), the cockerels which take over from the dogs in making gratuitous noise and the shear peace of this land which has seen so much human endeavour sidetracked into the pursuit of status.
To cut out a 60 tonne Moai from the living rock with stone axes and move it kilometres away from the quarry is an astonishing achievement. To do this in the pursuit of power and status perhaps brings to mind the construction of cathedrals in the Middle Ages – great for the aggrandisement of nobles and a shortening of their time in purgatory – but it did not help the peasants much.
Are we so much advanced and clever? Just consider our prestige national projects (and local ones such as the Edinburgh tram system)
Flying away
Falklands blog for Sunday May 12 2013
Wildlife in the Falklands will always be an abiding memory. An empty landscape with howling winds and yet, on the post over there….
a variagated hawk, clinging onto the wood with a fierce determination. A very short spook distance (but a longer one for me) the claws relax and he is off speeding over the tussock.
We are off too .. on our way home.
A good trip out to MPA for the LAN flight to Chile. The incoming flight was early so the staff rushed off to process them and we were left waiting in limbo. Not many on the flight and with good legroom, we settled back to our journey to Santiago via Punta Arenas.
Santiago airport – modern efficiency, bright lights and our hotel 200 metres across the road – bliss. Fast, free unlimited wifi – more bliss!
Off to Easter Island tomorrow
Last memories
Falklands blog for Sunday May 12 2013
This blog was not written in the Falklands, but sort of qualifies as it is about our last few days and a farewell to the islands
Friday and a visit out to see the beached false killer whales. Not really sure about what sort of whales these are but I am sure that one can google it. (They are a member of the dolphin family, are friendly to humans, and prey on other smaller cetaceans). A beach is never still, constantly shifting; disappearing and then coming back, sometimes years later.
The whales were there, but almost completely buried in the sand. The turkey vultures were looking disappointed at the slim pickings. This beaching of whales on shallow beaches is not an uncommon event. The proof is there to see – scattered and bleached bones as far as the eye can see. Though of enormous size, they are surprisingly light. All the meaty goodness has been leached from them years ago, and today, they crumble to the touch.
Then on to see the Elephant seals up the hill past Pleasant Roads. A fierce wind made the chill factor an unpleasant force. The seals, covered in thick blubber, looked cozy and comfortable. The spooking distance was not great, but a long lens took care of the pictures. Best not to get between the bulls and their passage to the sea or between them and their harem. If you do intend to focus your attention on close up shots, then best to keep a spotter with you for close protection. The bulls attack in two ways:
By biting – pretty unpleasant
By rearing over you and then landing on your body – universally fatal and not to be recommended. When they recover your body, they can probably slide it under the door.
Round robin
Falklands blog for Wednesday May 8 2013
Off to Goose Green via MPA. The road signs only seem to indicate directions from one side only, so off we toddled down to Mare Harbour – wrong way.
Goose Green, a photographers dream as always. Before we popped in, we stopped off at the Argentine Cemetery. Very peaceful – little wind on the hillside. What a waste of young men’s lives – the fallout from the “Conflict”
We visited the school – combined nursery, infant and junior school. A warm and sunny building, jam-packed with pictures, paintings and low slung fractions – a hazard to people of my height as cards bearing fractions and percentages were pegged to clothes lines across the room.
The jetty with resident night herons was visited as we searched for the settlement nanny goat – boy was she Not only strong but also had an unfortunate predilection for head butting.
Back up the road to San Carlos and Blue Beach Cemetery. Then back to Stanley – the lorry driver called it doing the Round Robin – travelling back along the unpaved road on the other side of the mountains – “No Man’s Land”
At last to Estancia farm (literally farm, farm – look up the meaning of Estancia in Spanish) and to the fabulous stone runs. Lumps of quartz (actually enormous boulders) deposited by ice sheets after the tops of the mountains had been scoured by the last ice age. The stone runs off the mountains and is almost impossible to traverse without serious orthopaedic trauma to your ankles. It is beautiful though and is commented on by Darwin after his visit to the Islands.
Over the range and we joined the MPA road, a quick left turn and off homeward.
A sense of achievement and a realisation that to understand these islands you need to know their geology.
Diddle–dee jam
Guest blog for Tuesday May 7 2013
Food shopping here in Stanley is both a pleasure and a shock to the system .. choice is limited (that is sometimes a good thing) and you have to be alert to the different prices of your every day goods. Salad is a luxury – high quality meat so cheap – 300g of steak mince for 80p
Life is not all shopping fun though. As Winnie the Pooh says we went on an Expotition.
My first expedition with Ian was to Cape Pembrook lighthouse and the Atlantic Conveyor Memorial – the wreck is 90 miles off the cape. Gypsy cove was next .. penguin sighting was exactly zero that day but fortunately we returned at dusk to see one lone straggler on the beach. The local diddle-dee berry and the tea berry were in abundance under our feet – the locals do make jam with them but I will never complain about berry picking at home after seeing how painstaking it is to gather these. The jam has a tart flavour and is definitely a luxury and probably does not suit all palates.
Great food for all the local birds. Upland goose is tastiest at this time of year as they had their fill of the berries.
Off duty
Falklands blog for Tuesday May 7 2013
Busy photographing penguins
Thanks to Nobby Clarke for the driving
So near but so far
Guest blog for Thursday May 2 2013
When we landed at Mount Pleasant I felt apprehensive but also so excited to finally arrive. A bit more form filling was required. I had entered and left Chile in one day with nothing to declare but still had to pass Customs one more time. Such a ‘pleasant’ experience.
My troubles were however not at an end. My bag was last onto the conveyor .. I spent my first quarter hour in the Falklands apprehensively checking the belt for my bag. Then, my booked pickup driver left me and others stranded at the airport. She eventually came back after being told that there were passengers to be picked up as well as those to be dropped off.
It is hard to describe the journey into Stanley …such a beautiful sky and unusual and dramatic scenery. I was so engrossed with chatting to my two interesting companions that I forgot to take one single photo. This mistake will not be repeated on the return journey.
Of my fellow passengers, one was a local who works at Seal Island and lives, while in Stanley, in a very traditional FI house (photo below). The other, a nursery teacher, has been here for a few years. By the end of the journey she was asking me to come in and help with the preschool outing to the Fire Station.
More mixups re address but finally arrived at my destination. Ian really is here and living in this ‘traditional style’ house and working at the hospital (blue roof)
More to follow … Diddle-dee berries and lighthouses.
Everyone’s getting ready for winter
Falklands blog for Thursday May 2 2013
Down to Gypsy Cove as the sun was setting. Perhaps there was a straggler still there, enjoying the Indian Summer that is blessing the Falklands. All the burrows we looked in were empty but just then, halfway down the beach stood a Jackass penguin – he looked at the pair of Upland geese next to us and was not bothered, but he did not like the look of us. His passage down the beach was precipitate. He scooted in his belly with his flipper wings digging into the white sand like sabres. Hitting the water at speed, he then accelerated out into,the crystal clear light green waters of the bay and was gone.
The beach was empty.
Moulting finished, the rest of the Magellanic penguins have headed off to South America and will only return next year to breed on these islands. The Rockhoppers have also left, leaving the Kings and Gentoos behind.
Some birds have stayed behind. I have a new favourite – the Military Starling. What is not to like?